I remember the first time I saw snow. I was in my twenties, but I felt (and acted!), like a five year old. I am almost certain I screeched with sheer excitement upon seeing inches of fluffy, white magic not only forming a soft blanket on the ground around me, but delicately falling from the sky flaunting its unique snowflake shape.
This snow spectacular was in Boston – my former residence for quite a number of years. Winter in Boston certainly can be cold and long. The snow can start before Thanksgiving and continue all the way through to Memorial Day. During these months of chilly temperatures, apart from the typical memories of constant driveway shovelling, car windshield scraping, and leather boots waterproofing, there is one memory that has me shaking my head until this day. Ice cream consumption.
It has been mentioned here, here, here and here, that New Englanders consume the greatest proportion of ice cream in the USA. And after witnessing the hoards of lines outside fine purveyors such as JP Licks, Emack & Bolio’s, Herrell’s, and the former Steve’s (inventor of the mix-in!) throughout the city and surrounding towns, I do not question this fact at all.
I have recently been reminded of my years in Boston during my recent honeymoon. Mr Mélanger and I took a relaxing and tranquil holiday to Tasmania. For those unfamiliar with Tasmania, it is our most southerly state in Australia. During our travels, we reached the magnificent World Heritage-listed wilderness of Cradle Mountain. (Some photos from the trip below.) As we were approaching the rugged alpine peaks of the mountain we could see they were still peppered in snow – which was a thrill to see given it is spring here in Australia. Along the windy drive to the Lodge, it actually started to snow, too.
I had not seen snow since Boston. I was that five year old kid again. Moreover, after the thoughts of hoping there may be enough snow on the ground for a little snowball fight action, I thought of ice cream. As you do. With my ice cream food memory top of mind, I knew I would have to make some deliciously, rich ice cream as part of caramel month.
So back in sub-tropical Brisbane, I turn my attention to some refreshing ice cream. For this task, I look to none other than the undisputed ice cream authority, David Lebovitz. David showcases a mouth-watering double caramel ice creamon his blog. The custard for the ice cream not only has been caramelised, but David incorporates crunchy caramel throughout the churning process at the end. After the triple caramel feast, I elected to keep things simple, enjoying the single caramel overtones of the ice cream custard in its most pure form.
I followed the directions to the letter. For this exercise, no point tweaking a recipe which had been expertly created. Having made considerable quantities of homemade ice cream in the past (all due to the abundance of egg yolks I have on hand after all my macaron efforts!), I was not anxious at all by the directions. The only area of watchfulness I noted was cooking the sugar. If there is only one trick to making caramel, this is it. The heating of the sugar to the right colour and temperature makes or breaks the caramel. In this recipe, you want it to be a strong flavour, but certainly not bitter.
I have never enjoyed a caramel ice cream like this one. Because of the caramel, it remains deliciously creamy even after freezing. It would also be sensational with the addition of praline per David’s original recipe to add some further crunch. I think this will be a firm favourite even after caramel month is over.
{ Salted Butter Caramel Ice Cream }
* Ingredients *
2 cups (500 ml) whole milk, divided
1½ cups (300g) sugar
4 tablespoons (60g) salted butter
½ teaspoon sea salt
1 cups (250 ml) heavy cream
5 large egg yolks
¾ teaspoon vanilla extract
* Directions *
Make an ice bath by filling a large bowl about a third full with ice cubes and adding a cup or so of water so they’re floating. Nest a smaller metal bowl (at least 2 quarts/litres) over the ice, pour 1 cup (250 ml) of the milk into the inner bowl, and rest a mesh strainer on top of it. Spread 1½ cups (300 gr) sugar in the saucepan in an even layer. Heat the sugar over low to medium heat until the edges begin to melt. Stir the liquefied sugar towards the centre until all the sugar is dissolved. Continue to cook stirring infrequently until the caramel starts smoking and begins to smell like it is just about to burn. Once caramelised, remove from heat and stir in the butter and salt, until butter is melted, then gradually whisk in the cream, stirring as you go. The caramel may harden and seize, but return it to the heat and continue to stir over low heat until any hard caramel is melted. Stir in 1 cup (250 ml) of the milk. Whisk the yolks in a small bowl and gradually pour some of the warm caramel mixture over the yolks, stirring constantly. Scrape the warmed yolks back into the saucepan and cook the custard using a heatproof utensil, stirring constantly (scraping the bottom as you stir) until the mixture thickens. If using an instant-read thermometer, it should read 160-170 F (71-77 C). Pour the custard through the strainer into the milk set over the ice bath, add the vanilla, then stir frequently until the mixture is cooled down. Refrigerate at least 8 hours or until thoroughly chilled. Freeze the mixture in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
